(*please excuse my many typos and misspellings. I didn’t edit very well, just wanted to get the story out).
Day 8 – Now here’s where things start to get crazy (because, um, they totally weren’t already). R and I thought this might be an “off” day where we could just chill and relax as the wedding would be at 4:21am the next day. However, R’s mom comes into my room around 8am (which is sleeping in by Indian standards) and alerts me that it’s time to get up to put a chudidarh on. Half way on she comes in again and says I need to put a sari on. And then she comes in again and says a different sari because people want to see me in it.
What the reader probably hasn’t gotten from my laborious journal so far is the sense of chaos and disorganization the Westerner experiences in the Indian paradigm. However, as many Westerner has put it, there is sort of an organization – or least some method to the madness – that does sort of keep the chaos in some sort of forward moving manner. Time, events, and things planned, do not usually unfold in a linear way. This is when I learned to sort of switch on “travel NK” or “zoned out NK.” It works well. R’s family can do as they please, do the things they like, and I just hang out for the ride!
Back to the story. After several outfit changes and greeting of guests all day, the time of my gowri puja (the puja where the families seal the deal of the marriage) was still being contested. Will it be at 5:30pm? Will it be at midnight? Who knows. There was some debate as to when and if I could eat, and several showers and “undergarment” changes were also required throughout the day. There was even talk of me having to sleep in the temple that night, so I was instructed to pack a bag (that I never needed because I ended up coming back). Overall, I think everyone else around me may have been nervous as the big day was so close. Or it was just another chaotic day on the Hindu marriage bus, no different than the rest. In either case, I rolled, as usual, but I must say this was an extremely tiring day. It felt similar to the brides lunch as I sort of felt I had to put on a show, and smile non-stop. I was trying to hold it together, make the family proud, make R proud.
Anyway, my gowri puja happened at about 6:30 with L Auntie and D Uncle. They became my Amma and Nana (mom and dad) after that. They are really two of the kindest people I’ve ever met. Amma has a very comforting and easy going presence – my dad notices this as well. The was the ceremony where R’s family pundit (or ambassador of sorts) meets with my family and they give each other gifts and the gods offerings to again, “seal the deal” of the wedding basically. Amma helped me through the ceremony and Nana gave me my first, real, concrete and positive feedback (besides R’s sister who is always amazing) after I finished repeating words in Sanskrit. I have yet to figure out what I actually said but apparently I have pretty good repeating skills and the videographer noted they wouldn’t have to dub over this part in the wedding video. Nana exclaimed afterwards, “That was excellent! Great job NK!” I admit I’m a Westerner who loves positive feedback in situations where I’m unsure. Heck, I’d argue that anyone appreciates it. In India there tends to be more of an indirect, “through actions not words” communication style that I do occasionally pick up on as well. I learn more and more as time goes on.
Anyway, after this puja I would be allowed to eat but not after midnight. Sounded fair. And, I could go back to the guesthouse and get a few hours of sleep. Ataya hung out and chatted with me a little bit before I went to sleep. It was nice. I hope in some small way this big blondie from the U.S. had made her proud some how. But there was still, even after all this, the wedding to get through.
Day 9 – Ataya woke me up at 1:00am to get ready for the 4am puja. I was having major problems with my contacts as I had mendhi (henna) on my hands and the wee hours and putting in contacts just don’t make a good mix. I lubed those contacts up and finally got them in without pain. Then everything else sort of unfolded in a “did someone just wake me up at 1:30 am haze.” A red sari was draped, I threw makeup on, a bindi was painted on my forehead, jewely placed, jasmine in hair placed, walking down stairs, a veil was put on at some point. Everything was swirling around me but I was still inside – it was here. The day was finally here.
We loaded up in the van, the other American girls in toe, and got to the “R Weds NK sign” in front of the wedding hall – it looked fabulous. I walked slow, leading with my right foot as instructed by Ataya. Most interesting was the veil held by Chris and Todd. I most clearly remember R’s cousin S’s smiling face from across the veil. I walked into the hall, could see R slightly through the veil. Of all the things people needed, of all the twists, turns, drama, and commotion, the time was very near for the moment only R and I would share. Maybe all of the craziness that lead up to it made it seem… all the sweeter? All the more meaningful? At the time I wasn’t thinking these thoughts – my mind was clear and I wanted one thing, the same thing I clearly wished with the red string years earlier: to marry Ravi.
I made it to the back of the stage and hung out with my dad. Amma offered me some of the most kind and peaceful words I have ever received in my life. I will carry them with me forever. Soon it was time to walk to the stage to sit with R and my Indian parents. The veil was back in place so that R still could not see me.
From here, the cosmos took over. I remember the following things so clearly, yet they felt so surreal… all I can do is recount in sentence fragments…
My heart beating – racing when peeking at R through the veil. Taking deep breaths in and out… saying to myself “remember to savor this… remember this view from the veil… hold on to these moments.” I stared at R intently through the veil. Eager and ready. I was to give R a coconut, bananas, and other offerings from under the veil. Our fingers touched… a zap of lightening! My heart beat even faster. Remember to breathe. Excitement growing. R’s feet are washed by Amma and Nana. He looks so handsome, so regal. R and I hold hands from under the veil – 1,000 volts of electricity shoot through my body! Several more offerings to the gods are made, blessings given – my Amma and Nan know just what to do. The moment must be getting closer… hands filled with betel leaf and the mixture of sweet and bitter spices. We place our hands on eachother’s heads… the auspicious moment is upon us… the veil is lifted! Drums beat wildly, bells chiming, sounds, everything, glaringly, wondrously amplified! The priest instructs firmly “Stare deeply into one another’s eyes. Right now!” We are fusing – becoming one at this very moment. More drums, more bells, looking deep into R’s eyes, I smile, he smiles. We are one.
Whew. I need a break. (I mean before I write anymore – recounting that took a lot of energy!).
We hold with our hands on eachother’s heads while our family and friends come to shower us with blessing by throwing rice on our heads. My dad is the first. He tells R and I, “I love you both!”
Several others came up on stage to give us blessings and good wishes. From here we did several more things:
There was a rope tied around my waist symbolizing something I am unsure of, I touched my toe to seven stones symbolizing various promises to R, also we walked three steps around a fire – yes a fire pit was created on the stage – symbolizing more promises R and I will make to one another as man and wife. The Mungal Sutra was also placed. This is a gold necklace that is make of two plates with a jewel in each center. They actually resemble a woman’s breast as they are to grant fertility. The Mungal Sutra is sort of the like ring in Western culture, but let’s be honest, it’s a little cooler J. We had a great time showering one another with blessing as well by pouring gobs of rice over eachothers’ heads – it was so much fun! Aunties behind us were shouting “Slow down!” Others shouted, “Hurry up!” I had to chuckle at this. R also gave me a wonderful surprise when I was passed a little slip of paper with a few sentences of the Catholic marriage vows on them. We read out loud these vows which was just totally awesome. R’s cousin shouted “Read them again for the camera!” to which I replied a resounding “No!” I’m sure my graceful reply was caught on camera J. We actually tied these paper slips with the vows written on them into my sari and R’s scarf that joined us together. There was a moment where I touched R’s feet which was humbling reminder that I am to take care of him. We were also lead outside by the priest for him to show us our star – a good one I am told called Anuradha. R’s dad called us to get in the car because he had a scheduled viewing f the idol – Sri Venkateswara. But we hadn’t exchanged rings yet, so we did and then threw rice and milk up to the starts as another offering to the gods.
We were then quickly whisked by car to the holy Balaji Temple where the god Sri Venkteswara resides. This means that the actual god is present as we was human and turned to stone. There is a long and fascinating story that accompanies Lord Venkateswara, one that best learned about at the actual temples website: http://etirupati.com/mytho.htm. In short it is visited by more pilgrims than the Vatical (30,000 visitors per day perhaps) and is a very hold place for newly married couples to visit together to receive blessings.
The temple was astounding. We had to fight through some crowds with a family friend even though we were technically being fast-traced since we were newly married. When we got to the idol we got a special viewing where the opened a set of gates that lead way to a closer viewing of the god. We were able to pray and receive blessing from the priest and spend an extra few precious moments with idol lavished in gold and diamonds. We were in the presence of a god and it felt like it. Before we knew it we were rushed out of the temple and were able to look at the surrounding religious objects and so on. This is where my pesky contact problem really started to flare again. I felt like I had razor blades in my eyes because they got so dry and irritated from smoke, lack of sleep, etc. I made it through another blessing by priests at the temple and needed those contacts out. When we went back to the guesthouse there wasn’t a key for the door where my contacts & glasses were kept so I was stuck. And, in the true spirit of the sacred and profane bumping up right next to each other, the wedding festivities were over. Just like that. After some more commotion I eventually got the key, peeled the contacts off my eyes and started dismantling all of my wedding gear, jewelry, and things like sticky spices placed upon me throughout the puja. Reflecting back I wish the end had went a bit smoother – but after everything (read: the previous eight days) we had went through, we had done just enough to plop over that marathon line. It was over, just like that, nothing left. It was a relief… but was I also feeling, a bit sad?
It would take us days, weeks, and I’m sure will take the rest of our lives to process everything that had happened over these nine days. They were ordinary and extraordinary, challenging and illuminating, bitter and sweet, and of course, wrapped entirely in both the sacred and not-so-sacred.
Our duties were not fulfilled without a visit to his grandmother (his dad’s mother) around a town called Vizag. We packed up our things in the holy Tirupati and headed out mere hours after the wedding back to Hyderabad. We then said farewell to my dad who would be flaying back to the states the next day. I felt so blessed and proud to have him with me. It is an experience that will join our hearts forever and one I am so very thankful for. R and I were able to spend our wedding night in a lovely hotel in Hyderabad called Novohotel. The next day we met up with R’s immediate family and went to Vizag and drove about 1.5 hours to his family farm. We visited his grandmother where she gave us blessings in the form of rice on our heads as well. The farm and R’s dad’s family were wonderful, hardworking people and such folks reminded me of my own family a bit (staunch Germans). We spent the day doing this, a bit more time with R’s family in the evening, and then we were able to honeymoon in Kerala the next day and then for about nine nights. The honeymoon was pleasantly laid back and not worth journaling too much about. We spend a few great nights on a houseboat touring the back waters of India, on tea plantation, and finally, the Leela hotel. Overall we recuperated and reconnected – it was just great.
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Writing all of this out has even made me tired! The first few days after I got into India and was able to observe the flow and pace of things in a way I had never been able to do before in regards to R’s family and culture. I told R that I realized in part why he wanted me to come to India so badly. There were a few things about R that I had tried and struggled to and tried so hard to understand, and when I was there, I needed to do just that – go there. I quickly realized that I needed to see his India to truly understand him. And he reinforced how it is all so difficult to explain. It felt like finally being able to fill in those last pieces of the puzzle – it was very rewarding and complete. I am incredibly thankful to have had this experience so early on in our marriage.
The first time I traveled to India I understood and loved India as a Western backpacker filled with wanderlust and awe. The second time I traveled to India I began to understand what it means to be a sister, daughter-in-law, granddaughter, cousin, auntie, and true member of a traditional Indian family. The latter will likely take a lifetime of learning. Throughout this new journey I will hold in my heart the words of two beloved members of R’s family: “Whatever you do [in terms of learning the language, how to cook, and adopting other cultural aspects into my life]… make sure you do it in a peaceful way. Come to it all calmly. Do what feels right in your heart… do it all out of love.”
Finally, the otherworldly aspects of the experience…are hard to describe. The memories and impressions I have are something like trying to run with slime covered water balloons in your hands – difficult to get a handle on – yet totally real, tangible, and demanding of all your senses. Doing pujas are very participatory acts. You handle different substances, like tumeric (yellow colored) which has cleansing properties, and vermillion (red colored), drink holy water, touch one another’s hands, the marriage necklace is placed, you stare into one another’s eyes, you received blessings, you toss rice, you touch the elders’ feet out of respect, you stoke the sacred fires (literally burning in a fire pit before you), you smell the incense, the fire, and the list goes on and on. The pujas are very engaging and real yet you aren’t entirely sure what’s going on sometimes – which is totally acceptable. There are, after all, ineffable cosmic forces at play here. R and I will have years to mine our marriage puja for insight, strength and meaning. One need not understand it all at once.
The entire experience felt like tapping into something much larger and grander than Ravi and I could ever fathom being as mere mortals. It was like somehow accessing, or poking a hole into this giant, endless – something – hovering above us and then being showered by its greatness, its completeness, and pure love. It became apparent how small Ravi and I were as individuals, how useless our personal agendas, needs, and wants were as such grand and cosmic forces gripped and transformed us. And we are not unique in this regard, either. We were now a part of the greater Hindu family – joined in the same tradition billions have done thousands of years before us. Our duty now is to be better versions of ourselves, to honor and cultivate such blessings throughout our lifetime together. We must now do right by the gods, right by the forces that showed us a glimpse of their true and most perfect form on this auspicious day.